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Spider mite control guide – It may be dangerous

This time, we shall be speaking about a different type of pest control. For spider mites - as commonly mistaken - do not belong to the category of insects, rather, they are the close relatives of spiders. That makes them arachnids of less than 1/50 inch (0.4mm) in length, the specialty being four pairs of legs emerging from a single, oval body and absolutely no antennae. Moreover, spider mites produce fine silk threads webbing.

It shall be wrong to think that spider mites are a single species; they stretch from the most annoying species of two-spotted spider mites of the Ohio landscapes to the European and Southern red mite, honey locust spider mite, boxwood spider mite and the oak mite. All of these are capable of inflicting severe damages; thanks (or curse) go to their specially formed mouthparts capable of piercing plant cells and sucking out the life juices. Therefore, if you notice tiny yellow or white speckles transforming into a yellow/bronzed cast, be assured that the part shall drop-off prematurely.

Thus, to plan a mitey holocaust, you must learn about their life cycles and habits.

Spider mites are active in both warm and cool weathers. The two-spotted, European red, honey-locust and oak spider varieties are active during a dry, hot summer, while the spruce and southern red spider mites prefer a cool spring and autumn. This is enough to know when and how to spot them; the only question that remains is regarding the pest control strategies, which can either be in the conventional chemical way or a natural spider control. However, unless the detection is early, it may prove too late for the natural spider control methods to be effective. Thus, one needs to inspect closely for the bronzed foliages.

If you want to go for a cultural pest control measure, then simulate the rainy weather. A forceful jet of water from a hose is quite effective if done on a regular basis; else, invite insects like lacewings and lady beetles that prey on spider mites. Quarantine the plants that are already been affected and don’t hesitate applying chemical spider control (miticides) measures on them. The idea is to get rid of them; since you can’t do much with the affected plants, use them as the subjects for your experiment.

However, if the same plants are too precious to you, then go for soft pesticides like insecticidal oils (both horticultural and dormant) or soaps. Horticultural oils and soaps are meant for perennial or woody and ornamental plants during the summer; the dormant oils destroy the mite eggs and dormant adults during autumn and spring. Just be careful about a thorough coverage.


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